In Amritsar.
Day 34: 36 km. I slowly cycled to the Wagha border (Pakistan-India border). The Pakistan side of the immigration building is cool and clean unlike the Indian one. Standing in a line for a passport stamp was too exhausting for me, I had to sit down and wait until everybody else cleared the immigration. I made another few kilometers in India. It is 30 km to Amritsar - small distance, but unreachable in the state in which I was. I saw a sign for a railway station and went over there, but they said bicycles were not accepted on a train. I should take a bus. And so, 2 km later, I took a bus to Amritsar. I sat by the window in case I'd have to throw up.

Pilgrim in the Golden Temple.
Day 35: rest. I spent the morning in the Golden Temple and the afternoon lying in my room. My appetite returned and I managed to eat some food - I opted for bananas and French fries and not for Indian food, to be on a safe side.
I had big plans for the grand finale of this tour. The final touch would be a quick ride from Amritsar to Pathankot, climb to lesser known Sach pass (above 4000 m), descending along Chandra valley and joining Manali-Leh road at Keylong, then up to Rhotang La (almost at 4000 m), down to Manali, Mandi, Chandigarh, and, who knows, maybe all the way to Delhi. But I will have to leave this candy finish to someone better prepared.
When I was undressing for a bed that evening the bicycle computer fell from my jersey pocket, bounced few times off the ceramic floor and went blank. It stopped working. Someone was trying to tell me that this tour is over. I didn't object.

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